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Views: 2 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2023-03-08 Origin: Site
In 1989, Marazen, a researcher at the Japanese Skin Research Institute, discovered and extracted glabridin from licorice glabra. Only 100g glabridin powder can be extracted from 1000kg glabra.The skin benefits of glabridin powder in cosmetics make it the king of skin lightening.The hydrophobic part of the licorice extract contains various flavonoids.Glabridin, as the main component of its hydrophobic part, has the effect of inhibiting melanin production and has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties at the same time.Experimental data show that the whitening effect of glabridin powder is 232 times that of ordinary vitamin C, 16 times that of hydroquinone, and 1164 times that of arbutin.
Glabridin powder is known to be an effective whitening and skin brightening cosmetic ingredient.As for how to achieve a stronger whitening effect, it can be divided into three different ways.
1.Glabridin powder inhibits melanin synthesis
The main whitening mechanism of glabridin powder is to competitively inhibit tyrosinase activity, take part of tyrosinase away from the catalytic ring of melanin synthesis,prevent the substrate from combining with tyrosinase, and thus inhibit melanin synthesis.Human experiments have shown that licorice can effectively whiten and brighten the complexion.A human clinical trial showed that topical glabridin significantly increased facial skin luminosity and reduced redness after 56 days.
2.Glabridin Powder for Anti-oxidation
Glabridin powder itself has a good antioxidant effect.Experiments show that it has the ability to scavenge oxygen free radicals similar to superoxide dismutase (SOD).Glabridin powder can not only inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, but also inhibit the interconversion of dopachrome and the activity of dihydroxyindole carboxylic acid oxidase.Studies have shown that at a concentration of 0.1mg/ml, glabridin powder can act on the cytochrome P450/NADOH oxidation system, scavenging 67% of free radicals, so it has strong antioxidant activity.
3.Glycyrrhizin anti-inflammatory powder
Water-soluble glabridin powder can be used to increase bioavailability with less cytotoxicity.In addition, it also has better melanin suppression and effectively reduces the expression of inflammatory cytokines interleukin-6 and interleukin-10.The in vitro anti-inflammatory effect of glabridin powder is also reflected in the inhibition of superoxide anion production and cyclooxygenase activity. Therefore, it can be used as a topical therapeutic agent to suppress skin inflammation and combat skin damage caused by UV radiation.Studies have shown that 0.5% glabridin powder can inhibit skin pigmentation and erythema of guinea pigs caused by UVB. Glabridin powder 0.5% (or base solution for control) was applied topically for 3 weeks.Reduced pigmentation was observed in glabridin-treated skin.In 1998, Japanese researcher Yokota Tomohiro conducted research on the melanin and inflammation inhibitory effects of glabridin powder.After replacing two hydroxyl groups at different positions in the chemical structure of glabra powder, the results showed that compared with the 2' hydroxyl group, the hydroxyl group at the 4' position had a greater effect on inhibiting melanin synthesis.When both hydroxyl groups are substituted, the glabridin powder loses the effect of inhibiting melanin production. This study points to the chemical components of glabridin powder's whitening effect.In conclusion, the whitening and brightening effect of glabridin powder is achieved by inhibiting melanin synthesis, anti-oxidation and anti-inflammation.
The glabridin powder on the market is not water-soluble, but Plamed has developed a 10% water-soluble glabridin powder. Glabridin 10% has a slightly acidic pH between 6 and 7.Metal ions are not required. Suitable for adding whitening mask.Glabridin powder has a good whitening effect, but its price is also high, which limits its use in cosmetics.Plamed has recently developed a new specification of PCR glabridin powder; its bioavailability is three times that of ordinary glabridin powder, and the cost of use is also reduced by one-third.In other words, you can buy licorice powder at a low price; at the same time,PCR licorice powder is more easily absorbed by the skin than ordinary licorice powder.In addition,Plamed 40% Glabridin Powder has more advantages. Plamed 40% Glabridin Powder is whiter than other glabridin powders on the market.Completely soluble in butanediol, which is gentle on the skin; no precipitation and crystallization after standing for 7 days.