Centella asiatica extract's efficacy and effect in cosmetics

What is centella asiatica?

Centella asiatica (Latin scientific name: Centella asiatica (L.) Urban), also known as Gotu Kola, coingrass, and horseshoe grass, is the whole plant of Centella asiatica in the Umbelliferae family. Snow-covered grasslands are produced in India and are now widely distributed in tropical and subtropical regions of the world. In China, they are mainly distributed in provinces south of the Yangtze River. The main active ingredients of the whole plant of Centella Asiatica include Asiaticosid  and Asiatic acid. Centella asiatica has long been used as a brain medicine, diuretic and auxiliary medicine for leprosy, ulcer and skin disease. Cosmetics generally use its dried whole herb.

A study on Centella asiatica extract published in the Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Science. The study mainly evaluated cosmetic formulations (oil-in-water emulsion and hydrogel) containing different concentrations of Centella asiatica extract. Gel) moisturizing properties and anti-inflammatory activity.

Studies have pointed out that Centella asiatica extracts have shown broad-spectrum biological activities for a long time, the most important of which are antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and anti-cancer activities. In dermatology, Centella asiatica extract is used to treat small wounds, value-added scars, burns, psoriasis, etc. Centella asiatica extract can stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and activate the SMAD signaling pathway, so it can increase the production of type I collagen and reduce the formation of stretch marks and inflammation.

Anti-inflammatory activity of centella asiatica extract

The terpenoids in Centella asiatica extract can significantly increase the content of collagen and cell laminin (fibronectin is widely involved in cell migration, adhesion, proliferation, hemostasis and skin tissue repair and other processes), and can stimulate scarring The production of mature type I collagen reduces the production of inflammation. In addition, Centella asiatica extract can reduce the production of pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-1, MMP-1), improve and repair the skin's own barrier function.

Moisturizing activity of centella asiatica extract

Centella asiatica extract can significantly increase the degree of hydration of the stratum corneum, which is mainly related to the triterpene saponins in Centella asiatica extract. Centella asiatica triterpene saponins are hydrophilic sugar chains, mainly glucose and rat Plum sugar can combine with water in the occlusion layer to improve the barrier capacity of the epidermis and enhance skin moisture.

The study conducted skin test experiments on 25 volunteers. The lotion and hydrogel containing Centella asiatica extract and the placebo group were applied to different skin parts, twice a day, for 4 weeks. The experiment observed that the hydration of the stratum corneum was significantly increased after applying cosmetics containing 2.5% and 5% Centella asiatica extract in the first week. Among them, cosmetic preparations containing 5% Centella asiatica extract have the best effect. Compared with the control group and the placebo, the emulsion containing 5% Centella asiatica extract caused a 12% increase in skin stratum corneum moisture, and the hydrogel containing 5% Centella asiatica extract increased by 10%.